The truly EXCESSIVE KTM tool kit


This winter I did a COMPLETE engine tear down. Split the cases. I tried to just use the tools I had put together for my bikes tool kit. I go overboard on the tools I keep on my bike. Anyway here is the list of everything you
need to tear apart your engine -- and how to carry it all INSIDE of your bike.

KTM TOOL BAG (for under the seat tool space)

1/4" hex bit driver (Slim handle and just the width of tool box)
3/8" rachet (S&K -- because the round handle fits snugly in the KTM spark plug extension pieces. It is just the width of the tool box, but with extensions I have about a 15" leverage handle -- and can add to that for about 30 inches of leverage with a tire iron from my tire wizard. It worked for me.)
KTM pliers
Small pair of side cutter pliers
KTM spark plug socket, extension and handle
KTM allen wrench T nandle and KTM hex extension (6 mm)
stubby 14 mm combination end wrench
3/32" drift
KTM allen wrenches (5 and 8 mm)
mini needle nose vise grips
1/4" socket extension
3/8" socket extension
KTM wrenches (8x10 and 10x13)
2 Large KTM wrenches for axle removal (27mm and 19?? mm)
full set of socket reducers and expanders (1/4 to 3/8 -- 3/8 to 1/2 -- 1/2 to 3/8 -- 3/8 to 1/4)

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PLASTIC SOCKET BOX (Small Sucrets cough drop box worked GREAT - holds 28 items)
(This fits under the seat in the tool space) 

1/4" hex bits include
3 mm allen
4 mm allen
5 mm allen
6 mm allen
8 mm allen
narrow slot screwdriver
wide slot screwdriver
#1 philips
#2 philips
T25 torx
adaptor for 1/4" square drive

Sockets include
19 mm
17 mm
14 mm
13 mm
12 mm
10 mm
8 mm
7 mm
6 mm
Adaptor from 3/8 square to 1/4 inch hex drive

KTM sockets include (driven by 6 mm T handle)
6 mm
8 mm
10 mm

A 3 cm length of 14 mm allen wrench (driven with 14 mm socket)
A 3 cm length of 10 mm allen wrench (driven with 10 mm socket)

Small button magnet with keeper

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Electric air compressor (Cycle pump) 
Tire gauge
Credit card multimeter
Leatherman wave multitool (has knife, scissors, and needle nose pliers)

In the slot under the seat is the KTM extension for the large KTM wrenches

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Using some hose clamps I have a Tire wizard bead breaker/tire irons attached 
to the rear sub frame. I have broken the front and rear beads with this tool.

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LEFT FRONT SIDE PANEL (Removed the charcoal canister and built a tool box)

Small Butane torch (Cost 4 or 5 dollars. Can solder or heat something)
Small epoxy kit
Extra bolt assortment (10 bolts with nuts and washers)
Spare tube (21" tube -- can put in back in real emergency)
Tube patch kit
KTM Engine blocking bolt
A small feeler gauge set (with sizes needed to adjust the valves)
Small roll of Electrical tape
Extra clutch lever (actually an already broken one, but usable in a pinch)

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RIGHT FRONT SIDE PANEL (Built tool box after removal of charcoal canister)

15' nylon tow strap
12' roll of mechanics wire
12' roll of electrical wire
aluminum space blanket
chain saw (about 16 inches of light chain saw)
27 mm socket (fits the swingarm bolt)
30 mm socket (engine internals)
32 mm socket (engine internals)
M20 bolt with 1.5 pitch threads (fine). 20 mm long (generator removal)
13 mm crows foot (used on the cylinder head nuts)
1/4 drive universal wobbler (just makes life easier in 1 or 2 tight spots)

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'GLOVE BOX' in between tanks
Really bright LED head lamp.
4 or 5 zip ties
A few first aid kit items.

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Impact wrench
Large torque wrench
Small torque wrench
rubber mallet
circlip pliers

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I really did do a COMPLETE tear down of my engine. I hit a rock hard enough
that I put a hairline crack in the left engine case, and
also had the main case gasket leaking. Using just the tools listed above,
I was able to split the engine, and put it all back together again. 
I didn't pull the transmission shafts out, but I was looking at them and it
would have been another 3 or 4 minutes.

Note that ALL this stuff is INSIDE the bike. There is no tool bag on the
rear fender or anywhere else. The tool box under the seat is REALLY big if
you choose your tools right. After a canisterectomy, some work, good plastic
pieces and plastic welding on the inside converts the side
panels into capacious storage spots. Great spot for a spare tube even
without any work.

These 4 tools are REALLY excessive. Only needed if you want to dissemble
your engine. Of course, if you were in some really out of the way place, 
I bet you could find a tire shop with an impact wrench and rubber mallet, but
much less likely to find these 4 tools. I only put these items in after
I dissembled my engine. I might take them out since they are kind of heavy. 
There was PLENTY of space though.

The T25 torx bit (holds bearings inside engine)
The 32 mm socket
The 30 mm socket (although this is needed for the clutch pack)
M20 bolt for pulling the alternator

Tools and other items that might get added to make the tool kit 
__REALLY EXCESSIVE__. The left side panel tool bin has lots of space left :)

The circlip pliers
A small chain breaker and press
A master link and 3 or 4 links of chain
Water pump shaft, seal, and circlips
Spare o-ring for the clutch.
Set of valve shims (just one in each size would take MINIMAL size and weight)

The clutch o-ring and water pump seem to be the only real problems with
the LC8 engine. Small and light to carry. Much lighter than the rotor
and diode boards I saw lots of BMW airhead riders carry around.

I have replaced several otiker clamps on the oil lines and coolant
lines with reusable stainless steel clamps.

Tricks in the tear down with these tools.

I wired the clutch hub to keep it from turning when I was removing the
bolt that holds it. Make sure the mechanics wire is small enough to fit
through the holes in the hub for this to work. For a garage tool, I would
order the special tool before I did this again. Getting enough wires on to
hold a nut tightened to 200NM took 35-40 minutes. The special tool would
take about 35 seconds.

My tire wizard tire irons were good to drive out the pivot arm bolt in the
swing arm. I suspect most tire irons would be too big of diameter or not
long enough. I LIKE my tire wizard.

Timing is EASY to set on the KTM if you have a bright light and
remove the engine blocking bolt so you can look for the indents on the
crankshaft counterweight. Get the official KTM engine blocking bolt. It
is cheap, and really works well.

Not yet on the KTM, but on my R100GS that I have had for 16 years, I've 
done all sorts of crazy repairs in motel parking lots. 
opened transmission cases, replaced bearings (pivot,paralever,steering head),
lots of other stuff. 

So far the KTM is WAY better about not breaking.
If I had not put the crack in my engine case, it would have been nothing but
owners manual maintenance in 17,000 miles.


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