Canisterectomy and SAS Removal

By:Groomez

Ah, the sweet flavor of single barrel spiced rum is a way of toasting myself for completing one of the most infamous tasks on 950's. Without further adieu, here is the canisterectomy and SAS removal.

Supplies I used (not all are pictured in pic) :

1. Varied set of vacuum caps ( I only used 3)
2. KTM Twins SAS blockoff plates kit with included vacuum cap for airbox.
3. Tube of QuikSteel Epoxy
4. 10' of 7/32 hose as per Head2Wind's post.
5. Random Tools
6. Time and Patience
7. Two M6 x 1 x 10mm socket head bolts.


Also, I'm not covering tank venting here. Everyone seems to have their own way of going about it. Just read here.

1. Take off the upper left panel (where the canister is located) and take everything out.... everything.


Lets say we already know how to take off the tanks, top half of airbox, and carbs.

--Refer to manual--

I fed the gas line and the idle adjuster cable through the airbox and left them connected to the carbs. You might do it differently, but this way was easiest for me.


Now in taking off the carbs, gas will come out, no big deal. When unhooking the fuel line, as seen below, gas comes out - just minor spillage.


When you've taken out the air filter and carbs from the airbox, notice the two hoses that are left over.


They were connected to
the carb bowl vents and join into a y-connector that.. you guessed it.. connects to a valve bolted directly underneath the airbox.


We are removing this.

To get to it, unscrew the two blatantly obvious nuts visible inside the airbox. Yank the y-connector and the two associated hoses,
manifold boots (if you haven't already) and you should be ready to take off the lower half of the airbox.

Remove it!

Now we see this


Notice the intakes that I've stuffed gloves in. There are 4 hoses (can you focus?) connecting to the intakes. 2 per intake. The ones on the
lower half of the picture (or left side of bike) will be pulled from their nipples, those nipples unscrewed from the intake, and replaced by our
2 M6 x 1 x 10mm socket head bolts that we purchased from True Value.


The hoses connecting to the intakes (gloves stuffed in) in the upper half of the picture will remain in place. We will only plug them for future
carb synching. I used vacuum caps for the these puppies and zip tied them to the frame where their position would not interfere with the
fuel tank bolting back onto the frame. These hoses should not be pinched by the fuel tank to the frame or engine.


So, the valve is gone - we tossed it. Our intake connections are taken care of and now I need to remove the SAS because
I have great sounding black FMFs and I bought the damn kit to do it.

Its a very straightforward process.

Here are the pics to explain.

Big SAS hose is going bye-bye.


The rear blanking plate is installed. I kept the reed valves in.


There is a lot of drama about the front plate.
I used this, (8mm) without pushing the oil tank or radiator out of the way. It can be done.




And installed the other plate in its place.


Now for the airbox. You'll see that there are two washers leftover from the bolts that held the valve in place. Knock
out these washers. Now there are two additional holes available. We will be using the original hole that the y-connector
fed through and the left side hole that was opened when we knocked out the washers.

"But what about the other hole from the washer knockage, the right one?"

Plug it - I used a wad of QuickSteel Epoxy I picked up from Ace Hardware. Bonds great and is hard as hell already.

(Pic Below: Left side of pic is left side of airbox, right side of pic is right side of airbox.)


Now, focus just on the two small holes we have above.
(The two larger ones are for the idle cable and fuel hose respectively)

The front carb hose goes in the left hole and the rear carb hose goes in the right one (the original y-connector hole)

1. Cut a piece of vent hose 11" long for the front carb and 10" for the rear.
2. The hoses are fed through these holes and outside of the airbox. No plugging.

Now put it all back together again.

Be sure that your carbs are seated properly and double check everything.
Also make sure no hoses (ie fuel hose to carburetor) are getting pinched.

...And what did we get rid of?


Bike feels much better now, Much Much better, now I know what everyone is talking about.

I hope this was informative to those that haven't done the canisterectomy yet. I had put it off for a while, but I'm glad I tackled it this weekend.

Thanks go to Head2Wind, cpmodem, PABiker, Flanny, and everyone else that has conquered the canister and posted great threads on ADVrider.

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